Emulsifiers

The balance between the water-loving and oil-loving parts of an emulsifier, known as the HLB value, tells formulators whether it favours oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions. Most products use a pair of emulsifiers with low and high HLB, often with fatty alcohols as co-emulsifiers. Natural and PEG-free emulsifiers based on glucosides, polyglyceryl esters and lecithin have grown fast in clean beauty products.

Ask for the INCI name, HLB, acid and saponification values, free fatty acid, and for ethoxylated grades the content of 1,4-dioxane and ethylene oxide residues. Raw material origin, palm sustainability certification and natural origin index are common questions. Many emulsifiers are also used in food and pharmaceuticals in separate grades, so confirm the grade matches your product.